Manila: not so much vanilla

The capital of the Philippines is a horribly poor and dirty city, that due to flight connection times to Boracay, always meant a layover for a night. 

We would typically try and stay in the Malate (gay area) or airport hotel. 

The number of guns and fear of terror is off-putting, where to simply enter a 5-star hotel you go through multiple levels of security, and pass officers with machine guns and taxis inspected for bombs. 

Jones and I were shocked once while waiting to enter Manila airport terminal building, where you must go through x-ray screening and security. A man next to us with a revolver attached to his belt just walk straight through as the alarms went off and nobody stopped him, yet when Jones walked through the same security x-ray machine alarm went off and he was stopped because he had a disposable cigarette lighter. 

Alarmed, we complained to the check-in desk and the response was many of these people with guns are local mafia and there’s not much we can do to stop them. We were told that we were safe because the police already knew who they are. 

Boracay: BoraGay in the Philippines

This fabulous island was our go-to hidden gem once we first arrived in China. Every year, we would try and go twice. 

White Beach is one the best beaches in the world for its white cool sands, crystal clear ocean water, and smooth sandy ocean floor that allows you to walk a long way out into the ocean. 

The white beach is commonly broken into 3 sections, named after the original boat stations. . . Each station is approximately 1km apart from each other, and a fun and easy flat walk along a sand access path between the beach and the businesses. 

Station 1 to the north of white beach is largely 5 and 4 star hotels with private beach, Station 2 in the centre of white beach is largely the commercial hub filled with restaurants, bars and shopping. D’Mall is the epicenter of Station 2 and is the best place for large grocery shopping. 

Station 3 (my favorite) is to the south, and largely quieter, more natural, with a smattering of boutique beach front hotels, private beach house rentals, restaurants, coconut groves and the bars (including the infamous Red Pirates). 

Everywhere in the Philippines is very gay friendly, particularly on Boracay. 

I often booked the Red Pirates paraw (a type of local catamaran) for half days to circle the island, stopping at an ultra-private beach for BBQ and drinking and swimming. 

The real secret to the fun and life of Boracay is its natural charms infused with western comforts. . . The beaches, ocean, sailing, drinking, dining and relaxing, making new friends and sharing experiences is what kept us coming back each year. If you arrive in Boracay with the plan to relax and rejuvenate, you will inevitably sadly leave having fallen in love with a way of life that is difficult to experience elsewhere . . . . 

Boracay can seem difficult to get too (majority arrive by flight from Manila to nearby Caticlan, then tri-bike to boat jetty, then ferry to Boracay island boat jetty, then tri-bike to nearest road access point to your hotel, then walk to hotel. . . but well worth the trek. But it’s Manila, and particularly its airport, itself that is always the downside. 

We built up lots of local friendships over the early years, however, unfortunately, since about 2018 it’s been overrun by Chinese investors buying up much of the beachfront hotels and as a result, is now a tourist mecca for Chinese group tourists flowing the flag holding group leader. The island has thus become an overly commercial, Disney-like mecca. 

Review by Toby Simkin

Haven for soaking sunshine, sailing, eating, drinking and relaxing.

For people wanting a balance of private relax coupled with fun nightlife, Boracay is a great destination. White Beach is one the best beaches in the world for it’s white cool sands, crystal clear ocean water, and smooth sandy ocean floor that allows you to walk a long way out into the ocean.

Can seem difficult to get too (majority arrive by flight from Manila to nearby Caticlan, then tri-bike to boat jetty, then ferry to Boracay island boat jetty, then tri-bike to nearest road access point to your hotel, then walk to hotel… but well worth the trek. For ease of getting through the myriad of transportation connections and various ticketing requirements, I strongly suggest taking advantage of the hotel transfers, since they meet you at baggage claim, and leave you at the hotel reception, taking care of all inevitable confusion at every step between.

Travelling just before high season in August and September continues to be great. Discounted everything on the island, with fabulous weather … Light tropical storms occasionally for 20 minutes or so which cools everything down… The rest of the time, sun, sand, surf and sailing.

Although there are several areas on the island, the majority of tourism occurs on white beach or on the crazier other side of the island along Bagalog beach. My experiences focus only on white beach, since, in my opinion, it is the only reason to come to Boracay.

The white beach is commonly broken into 3 sections, named after the original boat stations… Each station is approximately 1km apart from each other, and a fun and easy flat walk along a sand access path between the beach and the businesses.

Station 1 to the north of white beach is largely 5 and 4 star hotels with private beach, and conducive largely to spending your entire time within the hotel complex. This would be recommended for honeymooners or wealthy singles looking to be pampered by the hotel.

Station 2 in the centre of white beach is largely the commercial hub filled with restaurants, bars and shopping. D’Mall is the epicenter of Station 2, and is the best place for large grocery shopping, ATM withdrawals, clothes shopping and pharmacy. In the evenings, it comes alive with bars, clubs and restaurants and tons of people watching.

Station 3 (my favorite) is to the south, and largely quieter, more natural, with a smattering of boutique beach front hotels, private beach house rentals, restaurants, coconut groves and the bars (including the infamous Red Pirates).

Note… Walking along the white beach on the ocean side can be difficult if not impossible to get off if you are in he station 1 area, since many hotels block access from the beach to the main road, so you’ll find yourself having to back track to station 2 to get off the beach.

With the exception of a few old foreign tourists who like to publicly degrade themselves, the entire island, (much like all of the Philippines) is extremely LGBT friendly. Not an eyelid lifted, indeed quite the opposite at all hotels, restaurants, bars, activities and boat crews, from all the Red Pirates staff at Station 3 throughout to Discovery Shores at north end of Station 1, and everywhere between were extremely warm, friendly and encouraging to our LGBT group. Since everywhere in the Philippines is very gay friendly, there are no distinct gay bars, however Juice bar at Station 2 is a recommended late night spot, along with Club Paraw on Bagalog Beach if wanting full on nightclub.

All along white beach, it is easy to sign up for various activities such as sailing on a paraw (local low keeled boat with a bamboo outrigger that makes is super fast in the water), para sailing, wake surfing (like snowboarding in the wake on the ocean shoreline), snorkeling, scuba diving (all levels from 1st time beginner to advanced PADI), go kart racing (fun), plus a myriad of other activities — such as banana boats, imitation “zorb”, atv pathriding, horseback riding, etc.. Etc.. some out of place with the island, and some expensive. The ATV’s activities are slow, expensive and dull where you travel in paths in convoy, slowly… The Horseback riding is sad … Old horses, emaciated and dirty, likewise in convoy along paths.

Personally, I prefer booking the Red Pirates paraw with Captain Joey for about 5 hours (1000 peso per hour), and circle the island, stopping at an ultra private beach for BBQ and drinking and swimming. Take 5 or 6 friends with you for the ride and it will be an amazing highlight of your trip. Their new Paraw is one of the largest on the island and features flat webbing to sit on (a lot more comfortable than the traditional mesh rope), and some nice touches like marine putty over wire joints making it very safe and difficult to cut yourself, unlike the rest.

The hawkers and sellers along white beach can be a little too much in your face, day and night. However, I have found Boracay a safe place where the residents of the island are more interested in ensuring you have a great time and return to the island again, than grab your money and run like other tourist spots through Asia. So find local residents and befriend them early in your trip, they will give you the best advise, and you can most likely trust them completely. The great local friends we met on previous visits to the island continue to look after me on return.

Be warned, although most businesses (hotels, restaurants and bars) actively promote Visa, MasterCard, American Express, rarely in station 3, and some of station 2 do they accept cards, stating “lines down, communication problems etc…” to avoid accepting plastic. Boracay is largely a cash island. So plan your ATM withdrawals carefully to max out your cash needs so you can pay your hotel bills! The ATM’s dispense a maximum of 10,000 peso per transaction, so typically 20,000 peso will max out your daily limit. Between restaurants dinners, drinks, sailing, activities, little shopping and hotel bills, you will need a lot more, so plan ahead.

But the real secret to the fun and life of Boracay is it’s natural charms infused with western comforts… The beaches, ocean, sailing, drinking, dining and relaxing, making new friends and sharing experiences is what keeps me coming back each year.

If you arrive in Boracay with the plan to relax and rejuvenate, you will inevitably sadly leave having fallen in love with a way of life that is difficult to experience elsewhere ….